Apr 23/24/25, Days 150/151/152 Low Country Double Bogey Blues

Since we decided to spend another two days at Hilton Head I thought we could get away with a gap in posting. I mean how much can you say about a holiday island jam packed with housing developments, bike paths and golf courses?


4-25 beach
Beaches on this part of the Atlantic coast are awesome for walking.


Yes, some of that is great, but the actual ambiance is not a cool as some of the beautiful older cities we’ve passed through (Savannah, St Augustine), or those we expect to see further north. Shelter Cove Marina was part of the much larger Palmetto Dunes complex. Staying at the marina gave us access to all the resort facilities including the free shuttle bus to the beaches, stores and golf courses and we took advantage of it all.


4-25 golf
N was off to play golf within minutes of our arrival on Day 1. Hilton Head has a lot of courses!



4-25 17_LI
Iconic #17 at Harbour (yes that’s how they spell it!) Town Golf Club, site of last week’s PGA Hertitage classic. Red arrow indicates where ball should go….yellow arrow indicates N’s shot. In case you think it looks close, it WASN’T!



4-25 water
The expression you have while confirming to B you’re hydrating correctly despite your handicap shooting off to Pluto!!!



4-25 18
Last golf shot! The famous #18 at Harbor Town. See the marsh to the left? N’s second shot was pin high, but unfortunately the pin was nowhere to be found out there!



The shuttle drivers assured us we were visiting at the ideal time between Spring Break and Summer as Hilton Head apparently gets very busy with brutal traffic jams on the single north to south road on the island. Also, not too sure about living in a hurricane zone. We’ve seen lots of evidence of the destruction from Hurricane Matthew with plenty of stuff till to be repaired although a shuttle driver told me he’d rather have a few days warning of an impending disaster than deal with something like an earthquake risk. Sort of a fair point


4-25 boat
So we’re looking in a local yacht brokerage window and see this! Holy smokes, if this price is anywhere near accurate buying a Bayliner may be one of N’s best investment decisions ever! Some South African guy came up to us and asked if we were looking at boats….turns out this was his boat. We wished him GOOD LUCK getting that number. He was surprised until we told him we had the same boat tied up at the dock. He had to come down and check it out. Always fun talking boats.



Again, we found ourselves amongst several boats we’d met previously along the way. We don’t always see the same ones each time, but it’s becoming common to come across boaters we’ve met before. Big talk at the dock was the passage through “Hells Gate”….dum, dum, dum!!! What? We had to look it up on the chart. All the trawlers had timed their departures to pass through this narrow cut called Hells Gate at high tide, no current, blah, blah, blah. We didn’t even know we’d passed through until we heard about it at the dock and we did it at low tide!  No problem at all. Yes, we check charts, but we just worry less….. and remember we’re in a Bayliner! Hells Gate, Shmells Gate…. we laugh at current and low water although I’ll admit we did feel a little ill-informed at the dock that evening.


4-25 dock
Still lots of hurricane damage to be fixed. Check out the angle of this dock at Skull Creek Marina.


We decided to leave Hilton Head for Beaufort, SC to meet up with our friends Margot and Jerry who had left their boat there while they went home to get the cast taken off Jerry’s broken arm (the guy who crashed his bike in Florida).


4-25 cut_LI
Chart plotter wanted us to follow the blue line, but that was a lot of no wake zone! What to do? Hard to starboard across the shallows and power up… you go 2′ draft Bayliner!


I guess technically it’s not “broken” now, but you get the point. First confusion was are we going to Beaufort, SC or Beaufort, NC? Yep, believe it or not, there are two towns with the exact same name… or so you might think. One is pronounced “Bewfert” and the other is “Bowfort”. What?!! I still don’t know which is which. I DO know Beaufort, SC was rated by the New York Times as one of the 52 places in the world you MUST visit in 2016. I guess a few months makes a big difference down here because the place is nice and all, but TOP 52 in the WORLD? We’ll let others decide. BTW, the shot at the top of the page is of the famous Marine Corp training facility at Parris Island.


4-25 boats
These cool tall ships are at our dock tonight. Replicas of the Nina and the Pinta.


4-25 wall
This is a close up of a building wall dating from 1750’s. Normally it would be slathered over with something to make it look smooth. Cool how they used oyster shells and stuff.



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